Artificial-astrakhan fabric.



- N. GARPINKLE.

ARTIFICIAL ASTRAKHA'N FABRIC. APPLICATION FILED JULY11, 1911.

Patented Dec. 24, 1912.

M W #W 6 G M m w ATTO Er COLUMBIA PLANOORAPH 00., WASHINGTON. D. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT I o F on.

NATHAN GARFINKLE, OF PA'IERSON, NEW JERSEY, ASSIG-NOR 'I'O STANDARDTEXTILE GO. A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY ARTIFICIAL-ASTRAKHAN FABRIC.

, Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Tie-0.24, 1912,

Application filed July 11, 1911. 2 Serial No. 637,984.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, NATHAN GARFINKLE, a citizen of the United States,and a resident of the city of Paterson, county of'Passaic, and State ofNew Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inArtificial-Astrakhan Fabric, set forth in the An object of the nventionis to produce imitation astrakhan with a greatereconomy in labor thanhas heretofore been possible and also to improve the resemblance of suchan artificial textile fabric to the true astrakhan.

To the above ends, the invention contemplates the employment solely ofspun threads and the weaving of such spun threads in a loom of ordinaryconstruction; and alsothe employment, in the weft, of the ornamentalcompound-weft-cord, which gives to the fabric the appearance ofastrakhan' The actual character and make-up of the saidcompound-weftcord, in that it comprises a thin straight tension-core anda self-actuated cover of twisted ornamentalyarn of many times thethickness of saidcore and disposed about said core in a spiral of kinksof irregular size and self-locked to said core by theuntwist of saidyarn and its kinky for- -mation, is also a feature of the finishedproduct. c p

The invention will also be set forth particularly in the following:claims which should be read in connection with the folg. lowingspecification and the accompanying drawings which show the invention forpurposes of illustration and in which,-.. a

Figure 1 is a side elevation of the-com pound-weft-cord before weaving;Fig. 2 'is a'view looking into the open warp-shed after thecompound-weft-cord has been picked into place from the shuttle; Fig. 3is a view.

and at right angles acrossthewarp; Fig. 5,

is a diagrammatic sectional view through the finished fabric along thewarp and at right angles to the weft; and Fig. 6 isa perspective view ofthe finished fabric.

In carrying out this invention a loom of ordinary, well knownconstruction is employed which is capable, through its harness, ofopening up a plurality ofsheds, in i other words, a loom capable ofworking a multiple-shed-warp. I

The first step in the process is the production or procurement of theornamental com- *po und -weft-cord illustrated in Fig. 1. This cordcomprises a straight thin tension-core -1 in the form of a thin toughthread of suitable fiber such as cotton or linen. About the saidtension-core 1 is interlocked a self-sustained series of kinks'2 of atwisted ornamental yarn, preferably silk yarn. The com pound-weft-cord 3comprisingthese two elements 1 and 2 is manufactured according to theprocess set forth in detail and claimed in my application of even dateherewith and entitled Compoundthread and process of spinning same. Thecompound-weft-cord 3 is wound on a bobbin and is threaded up in ashuttle in the manner well known to the art for an" ordinaryweft-thread.

Fig.2 illustrates. diagram the" war-q shed for the reception of thecompoun weft-c0rd 3. vThe warpcomprises a mat of' thin spun threads ofthe ordinarycharacter employed in weaving artificial astrakhan fabric.For the reception of the compoundweft-cord 3, the warp 'isopenednp'intothe shed diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 2 so that the threads a ofthe outer layer A are spaced apart to approximate the w average spacingof the kinks 2 along the tension-core 1 of the compound-weft-cord 3. cThe inner or lower layer B of this warpshed comprises the entireremainder of the 1 warp. This layer B forms a substantially compact -matvbeneath the compound-weftore 3 and is sufficiently compact to preventthe penetration therethrough of any part of outer layer A are such as topermit the free passage therethrough of the or portion of each kink 2.The loomharness employed for raising the shed layer A may providelateral play for thelwarp. threads (1 so that they may more readilyaccommm date themselves to the spaces between the picked through theshed shown ,inyFig. 2

kinks 2. The compound-weft-cord 3,' is ,7

from its shuttle with the tension-corel supplying the necessary tensiontostraighten out said cord. After the weft-cord 3 has been picked intoits warp-shed A B, a warp shed diagrammatically indicated in Fig. 3, isformed so that each warp-thread a of the outer layer A of the shed shownin Fig. 2 now forms a part of the inner or lower layer D of thewarp-shed C D shown in Fig. 3

and so that the outer layer C of this warpshed is. substantially of thesame density, that is, of the same number of threads,'as the layer D.Into this warp-shed C D a thin spun weft-thread 4 is picked according tothe ordinary manner of weaving. The shed layers C and D are thenreversed in position and the weft-thread A is beaten up whereupon one ormore similar weftthreads 4 may be woven into the fabric in the samemanner. After a plurality of the weft threads 4 have been woven into thefabric a shed similar to that shown in Fig. 2 is again opened up andanother compound weft-cord 3 is picked into place. In this mannercompound-weft-cords 3 alternate each with a plurality of ordinaryweftthreads 4. Fig. 3 indicates diagrammatically how this process ofweaving forces the kinks 2 outwardly between their tying warpthreads atso as to form the finish F for the fabric. Fig. 4 also clearlyillustrates this feature, the tying warp threads at being shown insection as is likewise the underlying body fabric E showndiagrammatically in section.

, In Fig. 5 there is illustrated a section along the warp showing theirregular disposition of the kinks 3 and the tension-cores 1 andweft-threads 4 in section.

It is, of course, to be understood that Figs. 4 and- 5 are diagrammatic,merely in dicating the relative disposition of the body fabric E and thekinks 3 of the compoundweft-cord.

In Fig. 6 the general appearance in per-- spective of the finisheufabric is illustrated, although for the true appearance thereof,reference should be had to the accompanying sample, which forms a partof this application.

It is, of course, to be understood that the weave of the bod-y fabric Emay be varied as desired to accord with any suitable pattern, providedits mat is sufficiently thick to prevent the penetration of the kinks 2and to cause their outward projection from the finished surface of thefabric through the looking or tying warp-threads a.

For a more detailed description of a com pound-weft-cord suitable foruse in the manufacture of this fabric, and a method of making the same,reference should be had to my co-pending applications, Serials.

637,983 and 637,985 filed on even date herewith.

What is claimed and what is desired to be secured by United StatesLetters Patent 1s:

1. A woven fabric imitating astrakhan, comprising a multiple shed-warpof thin threads; compound weft-cords, each comprising a thin straighttension core and a self-attached cover of twisted ornamental yarn ofmany times the thickness of said core and disposed about said core in aspiral of kinks, said kinks being irregularly spaced along said core andbeing of irregular size and shape and self-locked to said core by theuntwist of said yarn and its kinky formation; one or more thinweft-threads alternating with each compound-weft-cord; and eachcompound-weft-cord being bound to the body fabric by the outer layer ofa warpshed, the threads of which are spaced to approximate theaverage,spacing of the kinks formed upon said compound-weft-cord forholding the core of said compound-weft-cord substantially straight byallowing the kinks thereon to curl upwardly between said threads toapproximate the irregular curly appearance of genuine astrakhan.

2. A woven fabric imitating astrakhan, comprising a multiple-shed-warpof thin threads; compound-weft-cords, each comprising a thin straighttensioncore and a self-attached cover of twisted ornamental yarn of manytimes the thickness of said core and disposed about said core in aspiral of kinks, said kinks being irregularly spaced along said core andbeing of irregular size and shape and self-locked to said core by theuntwist of said yarn and its kinky formation; one or more thinweft-threads alternating with each compound-weft-cord; and eachcompound-weftcord being bound to the body fabric by the outer layer of awarpshed, the threads of which are spaced to approximate the averagespacing of the kinks formed on said compound-weft-cord but which adjustthemselves longitudinally of said compound weft-cords to engage the coreof said compound-weft-cord between the irregularly spaced kinks thereoffor holding the core of said compound-weft cord substantially straight,but allowing said kinks to curl upwardly between said warp-threads toapproximate the irregular curly appearance of genuine astrakhan.

In witness whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

NATHAN 'GARFINKLE.

Witnesses:

LEONARD DAY, JOHN E. EASTMOND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

